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Thanks for the comment!! Glad to hear this video was helpful! We would not recommend regular mortar for this, you'll need something a little stronger. The product we used in this video was Easy Patch from Deco-Crete. After we repaired the slope issues, we applied a concrete overlay to make everything look uniform. I'll leave a link to the product page for Easy Patch on our website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!👍 www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/repair-prep-products/easy-patch www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/trowel-overlay/stamp-mix

Thanks for the comment! The cleaning/prep for the re-seal is generally just a pressure wash. We would recommend our D-One sealer as long as there's no heavy build up from original sealer. If it's been 7 years, the ordinal is probably almost gone at this point. Fixing the damage from the pool cover will be a bit more tedious. The best way we've found to do this is to use a color hardener slurry, but you could also use a concrete patch material or a concrete overlay. The hardest part is getting the color to match. I'll leave a few links to some other videos about cleaning, sealing and repairs. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! ua-cam.com/video/r7GIUvxm0vQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/uk2wPIYinFo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/9cqJ4bpkNTI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/u5RNPrg-8wE/v-deo.html

@@DecoCreteTV Thank You sooooo much for the detailled and timely response!!!

Thanks for the comment! 2' on center would be the standard practice for the rebar holes in the existing slab. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!👍

Hello, and thank you for the response. How far away from the edge of the concrete slob should the holes be drilled, and also how deep should the holes be drilled, and what size of rebar should be used? Thank you in advance.

@@kevinjefferson9739 You can start your first dowel hole 1'-2' from the edge of the slab, and generally, they would be 8" deep. #4 (1/2") rebar works well for the dowles. However, the size of the full-length rebar for the main part of the slab would depend on the thickness of the slab. In this video, the slab was 5.5" thick, so we used #4 for everything. #3 (3/8") rebar would be better for 4" slabs. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on doweling slabs together and slab thickness. Thanks again for watching Deco-Crete TV, we hope your project turns out great!! ua-cam.com/video/Kiwh2sVFghA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/IRO9wRSKfw8/v-deo.html

Hello, and thank you for the response. How strong the concrete should be-4000 psi or 5000 psi or more for the garage floor slab? What are the red rebar holders inside of the 2X6? What do they do, what is the purpose of them? Thank you in advance.

@@kevinjefferson9739 4000 psi will be fine for the garage floor. The red tubes are a part of the Quick Dowel system. There's a base that's screwed to the 2x6, the red tube fits over the base. After the concrete is poured and it's time to strip the forms, the base will come off with the 2x6, and the red tube stays in the concrete. This tube will serve as the hole for the rebar dowel. Eliminating the need for drilling holes. You can buy the Quick Dowels on our website, I'll leave the link below. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/forms-expansion-wire/5-8-quicdowel-base ua-cam.com/video/4XmPodKjz98/v-deo.html

Thanks for the comment! That was the Natural Concrete (RV-1000) color. Here's a link to the color chart on our website. Thanks for watching!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/sites/default/files/2022-07/Revival%20Color%20Chart.pdf

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!!!👍

Thanks for the comment! We do ship to New Zealand, the cost would depend on the size & weight of the item. We'd love to get some distribution in that part of the world, but for the time being, the best we can do is ship stuff out on a per-order basis. If you want an idea of the shipping cost, you can email alexm@deco-cretesupply.com and he can run a quote for you. You could also have your local supply store reach out to us about the possibility of stocking our products; I'll leave a link below to the "Become a Distributor" page on our website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV, it's always great to hear from contractors halfway around the globe!!!👊🍻 www.decocreteproducts.com/become-a-deco-crete-distributor

Great to hear!!! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!

Thanks, Bobby! Looking forward to seeing your vertical work!!👊

Thanks for the comment! The final grit of the diamonds would depend on what type of coating/flooring you plan on applying in the end. For high build coatings or broadcast flooring, the 18/20 is all you should need. If it's a thin coating or a stain & topcoat system, you would want to clean it up with the 30/40. There might be times that you'll need to hit it with something in 60/80 range if there are still a lot scratches from the 30/40's. I would not recommend going any higher than 80 grit because it can start to close up the pours of the concrete. Hopefully this helps! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thanks, Charles!! 👊

Thank you!!!👍

Thanks for the comment! This sealer will help protect the concrete from scratches, but it can still scratch from heavy use. However, the scratches are less noticeable due to the matte finish. We not recommend using the countertop as a cutting board though, cutting on it will take it's toll really fast. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thanks for the comment! We've never tried this on grass stains, so I don't know if it would remove them or not. It's definitely worth a try, though. Let us know if works! Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for the comment! We recommend a minimum of three coats, but four is ideal. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thanks for the comment! The product used in this video was Easy Patch from Deco-Crete. I'll leave a link to the product page on our website. Thanks for watching!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/repair-prep-products/easy-patch

Thank you!!! Glad we could help!

Thanks for the comment! We don't currently have any videos on removing existing concrete. You can rent a jack hammer from most tool rental shops and bust the concrete in to small pieces so they are easier to dispose of. For larger jobs, you may rent a skid steer to remove the concrete and have someone haul it off for you with a dump truck. It just depends on the size of the job and how much hand work you willing to do. If you search "concrete slab removal " on UA-cam there are quite a few videos out there. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thanks for the comment! Once you have the screed line established, you can either pull the grade pin out with a Vise-Grip or pound it down with a hammed. If you pound it down, make it's down far enough to get full coverage over it with the concrete. Otherwise it could create a weak spot. Make sure you do this as you go. Once you've screeded past it, you won't be able to get to it any more. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thanks for the comment! The base rocks should be 3"-4" thick. It's also important to compact the sub base material, you can rent plate compactors from most tool rental shops. I'll leave a link to another video covering sub base prep and forming. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! ua-cam.com/video/grwqtx5ajUQ/v-deo.html

Thanks for the comment! As with any concrete project, there no guarantees against cracking. That said, concrete overlays generally don't crack very often unless there are cracks in the existing concrete. In that case, there's a good chance it'll crack back through unless the crack is delt with first. Even if it dose crack, as long as you do the prep work, priming, and application properly, it'll just be a hair line crack and still function just fine. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!

Thanks for the comment! The safe answer would be to remove the sealer before applying Revival. I know it doesn't seem like there's much there, but even a small amount of sealer can cause a bond break. Sand/soda blasting is the best way of doing this. It'll remove the remaining sealer and also open up the pores of the concrete. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!

Thank you, Frank!! Have a great week!👊

You are welcome! Thanks for the comment!!!👍

Thank you!!!👍

Thanks for the comment! Wire mesh is a commonly used form of reinforcement. We prefer rebar for exterior concrete, but a lot of contractors use wire mesh. Thanks for watching!

@@DecoCreteTV Contractors like rebar and the stronger than mesh sales pitch. However, I talked to DIY and engineers say mesh is fine for residential garage.

Thanks for the comment! We don't have any plans of opening up a store in IN, but if there's no Deco-Crete distributors in your area, let us know. We'd love to know where you get your decorative concrete products. Thanks for watching!!

@@DecoCreteTV Jobsite Supply and RCS Supplies in Noblesville, IN.

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!!!👍

Thanks for the comment! The main purpose of those tamper rollers or sometimes called jitterbugs is to push the large aggregates down a litter farther. It's the same idea as the vertical style tampers, just on a roller so you can do this from outside the forms instead of tamping as you pour. We've never used any of these tampers, so I can't speak from experience on this one. Some contractors use them on stamped concrete jobs and say that it's easier to push the stamps in. I could see this working well on stamp patterns that have really deep grout lines. These tools are commonly used out west, but we don't see them very often in the midwest or on the east coast. Not really sure why that is, it's just something we've noticed. I'll leave a link to a video from Bob Harris talking about concrete tampers. Thanks form watching Deco-Crete TV!!! ua-cam.com/video/fGGdM51OwmI/v-deo.html

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!!👍

Thanks, Frank!!👊

Thanks for the comment! The technique in this video would still work on a larger scale, you would just need longer screed board. If you work from center out to edge in the short direction, you could do this with an 8' board. It'll be tough to do that size of an area seamlessly, and it will require mutable batches of the mix. The best thing would be to treat this as a two step process. The first step would be creating the slope and it probably won't look that great at this point. Once you have the slope the way you want it, you could apply a thinner overlay to make it look good. I'll leave a link to our video on broomed overlay below. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!! ua-cam.com/video/qIEfPZC_1pI/v-deo.html

You are welcome! Thanks, Charles!! 👍

You can purchase them from Deco-Crete! You can call us at 330-682-5678 Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/

Thanks, brother!!👊

Thanks for the comment! This was done before the slab was sealed. Doing this on top of sealer will work, but won't last as long. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment! That was Easy Strip form release, it'll keep the overlay from sticking to the screed board. I'll leave a link below. Thanks for watching!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/releases-forms-expansion-wire/easy-strip

Thanks for the comment! You can buy the illuminators from a verity of places online, including Amazon. Here's a link to the place we normally buy from. Thanks for watching! thefiberopticstore.com/

Thanks for the comment! Revival is alliable in 20 different colors, you can choose whichever one you want. I'll leave a link to the color chart below. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/sites/default/files/2022-07/Revival%20Color%20Chart.pdf

Thank you!!!👍

Thank you!!!👍

Thanks, Bobby!!

Thanks, Bobby! I got your photos on FB, looks fantastic!! Great work, brother!👊

@@DecoCreteTV yea sir, hey i wanted to let u know i def have the video from my trip to ohio all done and saved. I plan on posting it in our down time. Tbh it was one of my proud est moments and i didnt really know how to package it right, so it can help out both of us and still help other people

Thanks for the comment!👍

Thanks for the comment! If you have a floor with high moisture and want to apply a concrete floor coating, you can try a few things. First, try figure out what's causing the problem. Concrete floors generally hang between 3-5 percent moisture, if the floor is testing higher than that, there's usually a reason for it. Most of the time, it's a drainage issue under or around the slab. Once the problem is fixed, the moisture content should go back down. If the problem can't located or fixed, we do have a moisture shield primer that will help. However, the primer can only do some much and you may have to consider a more breathable option like a concrete overlay and acrylic sealer. The Moisture Shield primer works well on floors with moisture content between 5-6 percent. I'll leave a link the product page on website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/coatings-liquid-metals-poly-armour/moisture-shield